Amaretti and niuleddi “made as they once were”: discoversoprag La Dolce Bottega sopra San Teodoro

San Teodoro is a small Gallura village located on the east coast of the island, characterized by eighteen white beaches with fine sand and turquoise water and a tourist destination for young people for its nightlife. We are embarking on our journey to La Cinta, one of the most renowned beaches, when we alla maniera di across La Dolce Bottega, a small shop of Sardinian sweets and fresh pasta that has all the appearance of one of those places where ancient traditions are preserved.

We enter the small and welcoming room and we are greeted by the scent of the aromas of the territory: honey, almonds, citrus fruits, cheese, jam, myrtle and mint. It’s breakfast time and we take the opportunity to try some specialties of the house.

We start our day with one of the most famous tortas: the seada. You can choose between two versions: the “ricottina” – a seada in the summer version – smaller, stuffed with ricotta and covered with icing sugar – or the classic version. We opt for the second. Serena, the owner, after having fried it in front of our eyes still serves it hot and covered with honey.

We are advised to taste one of the must-haves in the area: the “biscuit pasta peaches”. A different variant from the one widespread in Southern Sardinia: here in San Teodoro the shape is a little different but provides for the classic crumbly biscuit base softened by the filling of jam and alchermes.

The last taste we dedicate to another torta that intrigued us: “Sa Pompia” that we recommend you try at the end of the meal for its fresh taste and the digestive properties of the citrus fruit with which it is made: the Citrus Mostruosa. A fruit that is found only in the territory of Siniscola and Torpè, villages very close to San Teodoro.  The torta is formed from the rind of the citrus that is processed with honey and sugar.

While we let ourselves be overwhelmed by the sweet and bitter contrast of this last treat, some tourists take away a tray of mixed sweets, as a souvenir to surprise friends and relatives. Each torta in the tray brings some of the typical Sardinian flavors: the bianchini, the amaretti with their almond paste, the sighs in the classic version with anise or myrtle, and finally the chiu di pinu – with sweet dough, honey, and almonds – and the niuleddi with sweet dough spaghetti, honey, and orange.

We also had a small tray prepared to take away and the choice is very difficult: at the counter, we notice the famous “Pardule” or as they are called in this area “Formaggelle” and we could not resist their ricotta filling flavored with lemon and orange peels.

We complete everything with crumbly Gallura biscuits and papassini with dried figs, almonds and walnuts covered with a white sugar glaze.

Before leaving La Dolce Bottega we are enchanted by the fresh pasta prepared in the laboratory at the back: on the workbench we see Sardinian dumplings, egg tagliolini, and ravioli stuffed with ricotta or cheese and mint.

We leave La Dolce Bottega and go to enjoy our sweets on the beach, under the warm sun of San Teodoro.

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